For most engineered, hybrid, laminate and vinyl floors, acclimatisation isn't usually necessary, but the boxes should sit in the room they'll be installed in for a short period beforehand so the flooring adjusts to the room's temperature and humidity. Solid timber and bamboo floors are more sensitive to humidity, so these need a longer acclimatisation period and a more controlled environment. Check the installation guide for your specific product, or get in touch and we'll confirm.

Your subfloor needs to meet three basic requirements:

• Flat — generally no more than 4mm of variation over a 2 metre straight edge.
• Dry — concrete subfloors need to be tested and within moisture limits, and a moisture barrier should be used underneath floating floors.
• Stable — the subfloor shouldn't move, flex, or show signs of instability.

If your subfloor doesn't meet these, it usually needs a self-levelling compound. See our floor preparation & levelling range.

In many cases yes, as long as the existing floor is firmly fixed (not loose or floating) and flat. For tiled floors, grout lines generally need to be no more than 3mm wide or deep. If you're unsure whether your existing floor is suitable, send us a few photos and we can advise.

Over a concrete subfloor, yes. Concrete holds and releases moisture long after it looks dry, and a floating floor laid straight onto it can cup or swell from underneath. Many of our underlays include a foil moisture barrier built in, so check what yours has before buying a separate layer. Over a timber subfloor with good airflow beneath, a barrier is usually not required, but always check your flooring's installation guide.

A floating floor isn't fixed to the subfloor at all, the boards click together and simply sit on top of an underlay. It's the easier, more DIY-friendly option.

A glue-down (direct stick) installation is adhered directly to the subfloor with a flooring adhesive. It's more labour-intensive and best left to experienced installers, but can offer a more solid underfoot feel. See our adhesives & glues range.

Flooring naturally expands and contracts with changes in temperature and humidity. Without a gap around the perimeter, the floor has nowhere to move and can buckle or peak at the joints.

As a general guide: floating installations need a minimum 12mm gap, direct stick installations need 4-5mm. Larger rooms also need to be broken up into smaller compartments (generally no more than 60m², or 40m² in areas with higher humidity or temperature swings) using an expansion trim. Always check the specific installation guide for your flooring, as requirements vary by product.

Some of our engineered oak ranges are suitable over hydronic in-slab underfloor heating (not in-screed or electric systems), with a surface temperature capped at 27°C. Australian timber species generally aren't suitable with any form of floor heating. If you're planning underfloor heating, let us know before you order so we can confirm your specific floor is compatible.

Cupping and shrinkage are almost always caused by moisture, either the subfloor being too damp, the room's humidity swinging significantly, or underfloor heating being ramped up or down too quickly. Keeping your subfloor within moisture limits, using the correct moisture barrier, leaving proper expansion gaps, and keeping the room's environment reasonably stable after installation are the best ways to avoid it.

A floating floor is genuinely DIY-friendly. The boards click together, and with a tapping block, pull bar, spacers and a saw, most people can lay a room in a weekend. Where we'd recommend a professional is a glue-down installation, a subfloor that needs levelling first, stairs, or a large open-plan area that has to be broken into compartments. See our installation tools if you're doing it yourself.

As a rule of thumb, run the boards along the longest wall, or towards the main source of natural light, which makes the joins less obvious and the room feel longer. In narrow hallways, running boards along the length almost always looks better. Over a timber subfloor there's also a structural rule: boards should run across the joists rather than with them. Check your flooring's installation guide, as some products specify a direction.

Every flooring range comes with its own step-by-step installation guide covering subfloor prep, expansion gaps and compartment sizes, and the specific fitting method for that product. Download the guide for your flooring type below, or check the "Specs & Downloads" tab on your product page.

• Engineered Timber & Oak Flooring — Installation Guide
• Hybrid Flooring — Installation Guide
• Laminate Flooring — Installation Guide
• Vinyl Flooring — Installation Guide
• Bamboo Flooring — Installation Guide

For most floating floors, yes. Underlay cushions impact noise, helps protect the flooring's joints, can act as a moisture barrier, and adds a bit of comfort underfoot. Some hybrid flooring comes with underlay pre-attached, in which case additional underlay usually isn't necessary unless you're installing upstairs or need extra acoustic performance. Have a look at our underlay range.

Foam underlay (like our 2mm Silver and 3mm Gold underlays) is a budget-friendly, general-purpose option best suited to everyday laminate, hybrid, vinyl and click-lock timber floors in houses and ground floor rooms.

Rubber underlay offers much better acoustic (noise reduction) performance and is the better choice for apartments, units, upper floors, and any installation with strict noise requirements. It's also required for any glue-down installation that uses underlay.

Check with your strata or body corporate for the required acoustic rating (often expressed as a "star" rating) before choosing an underlay. Once you know the requirement, we can recommend the right rubber or acoustic underlay to suit. Installing the wrong underlay in a strata property can mean having to rip up and redo the whole floor, so it's worth confirming this first.

Yes, and it matters more than people expect. Your total build-up is the flooring thickness plus the underlay, and that combined number is what decides which base kit size your transition strips need. A 14mm engineered oak over 3mm rubber underlay is a 17mm build-up, not 14mm. It also affects how your new floor meets existing tile or carpet, and whether internal doors still clear the floor.

For foam underlays with a foil/moisture barrier layer, the shiny (silver) side always faces down, towards the subfloor, with the foam side facing up towards your new flooring. The foil only works as a moisture barrier if it's facing the moisture source below.

It goes by a lot of names. A flat or H-shaped one joining two floors of the same height is often called a T-bar, T-moulding or flat cover trim. One that slopes down to a lower surface is a reducer, which we call a ramp trim. One that caps the cut end of your boards is an end cap, end trim or border trim. An L-shaped one glued over the edge is an angle or L angle. We stock all four, in 20 colours. Browse the full trims range.

Expansion trims (also called flat cover, universal, or door C-channel trims) sit across doorways or large open-plan areas, allowing flooring on either side to expand and contract independently. They're required whenever a room is larger than the maximum compartment size for your flooring. Have a look at our trims range.

It depends on the height difference. If both floors finish at a similar height, a flat cover or universal trim works well. If there's a noticeable step, a ramp or reducer trim is the better option, as it slopes between the two levels so nobody catches a toe. A ramp handles a drop of up to 45mm with a base, and further again when it's adhesive-fixed. Where your floor simply stops at a sliding door track or a carpet edge, an end border trim caps the board ends neatly.

Browse the full trims collection, or get in touch with your measurements and we'll recommend the right one.

Base kits are sized on your total build-up, which is your flooring thickness plus any underlay, not on the height of the step. A 6.5mm hybrid with no underlay is a 6.5mm build-up and takes the smallest kit. A 14mm engineered oak over 3mm rubber underlay is 17mm and takes a much larger one. Work out that number first and the rest follows.

If you're buying one of our flooring ranges, we've already pre-matched the closest trim colour for you on the product page under "Add Accessories". We carry 20 finishes, the biggest aluminium trim colour range in Australia, though in some cases we can only get to a close match rather than an exact one. If the match matters, we can post you a $5 sample of the actual trim in the colours you're considering, around 10-15cm long. Just get in touch and we'll organise it.

If your subfloor has dips, humps, or more than about 4mm of variation over 2 metres, yes, it will need self-levelling before your new floor goes down. This protects your warranty and prevents movement, noise, and joint damage down the track. See our self-levelling compound range.

As a rule of thumb, one 20kg bag covers roughly 12.25m² per millimetre of depth (for example, a 20m² room needing a 3mm pour would need around 5 bags). Contact us with your area and depth and we can work out an exact figure for you.

This depends on your flooring type and subfloor. For timber, engineered and parquet flooring, a single-component, moisture-curing polyurethane adhesive is generally recommended. For vinyl and rubber floorcoverings, a purpose-made vinyl adhesive is needed instead. Have a look at our adhesives & glues range, or contact us with your flooring type and we'll point you to the right product.

A flexible construction adhesive rather than a flooring adhesive. Our Fast-Grab MS Adhesive is what we recommend, applied with a standard adhesive gun. It holds the trim base to the subfloor without putting fixings through it, and stays flexible as the floor moves. One 600ml sausage is generally plenty for a house.

We generally recommend adding 5-10% on top of your measured area, to allow for cuts, offcuts, and any damaged pieces. Larger or more complex layouts (e.g. diagonal installations) may need a bit more. See our how to measure guide for help calculating your total.

It depends entirely on the product, always check the specific product page or contact us before installing in a wet area or outdoors. Some ranges are fully waterproof and suited to bathrooms, while balconies and other exterior areas usually need a purpose-built waterproofing and screed system rather than standard indoor flooring products.

Waterproof flooring can handle standing water and spills without swelling or being damaged, provided water doesn't get underneath or into the joints long-term. Water-resistant flooring can handle occasional spills if cleaned up promptly, but isn't designed for prolonged exposure to moisture. Check the individual product page for the specific rating.

General care varies by flooring type, but as a rule:

• Sweep or vacuum regularly to keep grit from scratching the surface.
• Avoid steam mops, they can damage the core of most floors.
• Wipe up spills promptly, even on waterproof floors.
• Use felt pads under furniture legs.
• Avoid excess water when mopping.

Check your product's care guide for specific recommendations.

Yes. Freight is quoted based on weight, size and destination, and larger orders ship on a pallet. Our delivery and pickup page has the detail, including pickup from our warehouse. If you're not sure what your order will cost to freight, send us your address and quantities and we'll price it for you.