Everything you need to know about installation, underlay, trims and our products. Can't find your answer? Get in touch and we'll help you out.

Installation & Subfloor Preparation

Do I need to acclimatise my flooring before installing it?

For most engineered, hybrid, laminate and vinyl floors, acclimatisation isn't usually necessary, but the boxes should sit in the room they'll be installed in for a short period beforehand so the flooring adjusts to the room's temperature and humidity. Solid timber and bamboo floors are more sensitive to humidity, so these need a longer acclimatisation period and a more controlled environment. Check the installation guide for your specific product, or get in touch and we'll confirm.

What condition does my subfloor need to be in before installing new flooring?

Your subfloor needs to meet three basic requirements:

  • Flat — generally no more than 4mm of variation over a 2 metre straight edge.
  • Dry — concrete subfloors need to be tested and within moisture limits, and a moisture barrier should be used underneath floating floors.
  • Stable — the subfloor shouldn't move, flex, or show signs of instability.

If your subfloor doesn't meet these, it usually needs a self-levelling compound. See our floor preparation & levelling range.

Can I install new flooring over existing tiles or another floor?

In many cases yes, as long as the existing floor is firmly fixed (not loose or floating) and flat. For tiled floors, grout lines generally need to be no more than 3mm wide or deep. If you're unsure whether your existing floor is suitable, send us a few photos and we can advise.

What's the difference between a floating installation and a glue-down installation?

A floating floor isn't fixed to the subfloor at all, the boards click together and simply sit on top of an underlay. It's the easier, more DIY-friendly option.

A glue-down (direct stick) installation is adhered directly to the subfloor with a flooring adhesive. It's more labour-intensive and best left to experienced installers, but can offer a more solid underfoot feel. See our adhesives & glues range.

Why do I need expansion gaps, and how big should they be?

Flooring naturally expands and contracts with changes in temperature and humidity. Without a gap around the perimeter, the floor has nowhere to move and can buckle or peak at the joints.

As a general guide: floating installations need a minimum 12mm gap, direct stick installations need 4-5mm. Larger rooms also need to be broken up into smaller compartments (generally no more than 60m², or 40m² in areas with higher humidity or temperature swings) using an expansion trim. Always check the specific installation guide for your flooring, as requirements vary by product.

Can my flooring be installed over underfloor heating?

Some of our engineered oak ranges are suitable over hydronic in-slab underfloor heating (not in-screed or electric systems), with a surface temperature capped at 27°C. Australian timber species generally aren't suitable with any form of floor heating. If you're planning underfloor heating, let us know before you order so we can confirm your specific floor is compatible.

What causes floors to cup or shrink, and how do I avoid it?

Cupping and shrinkage are almost always caused by moisture, either the subfloor being too damp, the room's humidity swinging significantly, or underfloor heating being ramped up or down too quickly. Keeping your subfloor within moisture limits, using the correct moisture barrier, leaving proper expansion gaps, and keeping the room's environment reasonably stable after installation are the best ways to avoid it.

Installation Guidelines

Where can I find the installation guide for my flooring?

Every flooring range comes with its own step-by-step installation guide covering subfloor prep, expansion gaps and compartment sizes, and the specific fitting method for that product. Download the guide for your flooring type below, or check the "Specs & Downloads" tab on your product page.

Underlay

Do I need underlay under my new flooring?

For most floating floors, yes. Underlay cushions impact noise, helps protect the flooring's joints, can act as a moisture barrier, and adds a bit of comfort underfoot. Some hybrid flooring comes with underlay pre-attached, in which case additional underlay usually isn't necessary unless you're installing upstairs or need extra acoustic performance. Have a look at our underlay range.

What's the difference between foam and rubber underlay?

Foam underlay (like our 2mm Silver and 3mm Gold underlays) is a budget-friendly, general-purpose option best suited to everyday laminate, hybrid, vinyl and click-lock timber floors in houses and ground floor rooms.

Rubber underlay offers much better acoustic (noise reduction) performance and is the better choice for apartments, units, upper floors, and any installation with strict noise requirements. It's also required for any glue-down installation that uses underlay.

I'm in an apartment or strata building. What underlay do I need?

Check with your strata or body corporate for the required acoustic rating (often expressed as a "star" rating) before choosing an underlay. Once you know the requirement, we can recommend the right rubber or acoustic underlay to suit. Installing the wrong underlay in a strata property can mean having to rip up and redo the whole floor, so it's worth confirming this first.

Which side of the underlay faces up?

For foam underlays with a foil/moisture barrier layer, the shiny (silver) side always faces down, towards the subfloor, with the foam side facing up towards your new flooring. The foil only works as a moisture barrier if it's facing the moisture source below.

Trims & Finishing

What are expansion trims and why do I need them?

Expansion trims (also called flat cover, universal, or door C-channel trims) sit across doorways or large open-plan areas, allowing flooring on either side to expand and contract independently. They're required whenever a room is larger than the maximum compartment size for your flooring. Have a look at our trims range.

What trim do I need where my new floor meets tiles, carpet, or a different flooring height?

It depends on the height difference. If both floors are a similar height, a flat cover/expansion trim works well. If there's a noticeable step (up to about 40mm), a ramp or reducer trim is the better option, as it's designed to bridge two different heights smoothly. Browse the full trims collection or get in touch with your measurements and we'll recommend the right one.

How do I choose the right trim colour?

If you're purchasing one of our flooring ranges, we pre-match the closest trim colour for you on the product page under "Add Accessories". Otherwise, you're welcome to order a $5 colour sample so you can check the match in person before committing to a full order.

Levelling & Adhesives

Does my floor need self-levelling compound before installation?

If your subfloor has dips, humps, or more than about 4mm of variation over 2 metres, yes, it will need self-levelling before your new floor goes down. This protects your warranty and prevents movement, noise, and joint damage down the track. See our self-levelling compound range.

How many bags of self-leveller do I need for my space?

As a rule of thumb, one 20kg bag covers roughly 12.25m² per millimetre of depth (for example, a 20m² room needing a 3mm pour would need around 5 bags). Contact us with your area and depth and we can work out an exact figure for you.

What adhesive should I use for a glue-down installation?

This depends on your flooring type and subfloor. For timber, engineered and parquet flooring, a single-component, moisture-curing polyurethane adhesive is generally recommended. For vinyl and rubber floorcoverings, a purpose-made vinyl adhesive is needed instead. Have a look at our adhesives & glues range, or contact us with your flooring type and we'll point you to the right product.

General Product Questions

How much extra flooring should I order to allow for wastage?

We generally recommend adding 5-10% on top of your measured area, to allow for cuts, offcuts, and any damaged pieces. Larger or more complex layouts (e.g. diagonal installations) may need a bit more. See our how to measure guide for help calculating your total.

Is this flooring suitable for bathrooms, balconies, or outdoor use?

It depends entirely on the product, always check the specific product page or contact us before installing in a wet area or outdoors. Some ranges are fully waterproof and suited to bathrooms, while balconies and other exterior areas usually need a purpose-built waterproofing and screed system rather than standard indoor flooring products.

What's the difference between "waterproof" and "water-resistant" flooring?

Waterproof flooring can handle standing water and spills without swelling or being damaged, provided water doesn't get underneath or into the joints long-term. Water-resistant flooring can handle occasional spills if cleaned up promptly, but isn't designed for prolonged exposure to moisture. Check the individual product page for the specific rating.

How do I clean and maintain my new floor?

General care varies by flooring type, but as a rule:

  • Sweep or vacuum regularly to keep grit from scratching the surface.
  • Avoid steam mops, they can damage the core of most floors.
  • Wipe up spills promptly, even on waterproof floors.
  • Use felt pads under furniture legs.
  • Avoid excess water when mopping.

Check your product's care guide for specific recommendations.